How to make a headboard?
Louis MikolajczakHow to make a headboard: 3 simple methods (wood, fabric or recycled materials) that really hold up
If you type “ how to make a headboard ” or “ how to make a headboard ,” it’s often for a very practical reason: you want a nice-looking result, but you don’t want to pay €300 to €900 for a fabric-covered board. Good news: making a headboard yourself isn’t rocket science… provided you choose the right method and don’t skimp on the installation.
In this guide, I'll show you the 3 options that really work (wood / upholstered headboard / repurposed), with useful measurements, materials, steps, and common mistakes that can ruin the result. No fluff: by the end, you'll know exactly what to do at home.
In short: depending on the method, expect a budget of €0 to €220 , 2 to 10 hours of work, and an easy to medium level (the real “trap” remains the fixing).
Summary
- 1. Choose the right method (depending on your bed, your wall, your level)
- 2. Measurements that prevent regrets (width, height, thickness)
- 3. Quick comparison: cost, time, difficulty
- 4. Method 1: Wooden headboard (the most durable)
- 5. Method 2: Upholstered headboard (comfort + hotel look)
- 6. Method 3: Recycling (pallets, doors, battens) without resorting to “cheap DIY”
- 7. Mounting: wall, bed frame, or placed on the floor (which is the safest)
- 8. Clean finishes: joints, edges, wall protection
- 9. Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)
- 10. In summary: the simplest method depending on your situation
- 11. FAQ: Height, mounting, budget (quick answers)
1. Choose the right method (depending on your bed, your wall, your level)
Before buying wood or fabric, ask yourself a simple question: what do you expect from your headboard ? A quick decorative touch? A truly comfortable support? Something that lasts 10 years?
Next, look at your wall:
Placo / BA13 : it can be fixed, but you need the right anchors (and avoid headboards that are too heavy).
Solid wall (brick, concrete): easy and solid fixing.
Fragile wall / location : opt for a headboard placed on the floor, or fixed to the bed frame.
2. Measurements that prevent regrets (width, height, thickness)
A failed headboard is often a poorly sized headboard: too low, too narrow, or too thick in the wrong place.
| Bed width | Recommended headboard width | Visible height above the mattress | Handy tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 140 cm | 140 to 160 cm | 55 to 75 cm | +10 cm on each side = more “finished” look. |
| 160 cm | 160 to 180 cm | 60 to 85 cm | If you read in bed: aim for 75 cm. |
| 180 cm | 180 to 200 cm | 65 to 90 cm | Big wall = you can “climb” higher. |
Two simple guidelines:
Width : at least the width of the bed, ideally a little more (hotel effect).
Visible height : below 50 cm, it quickly looks like a "small panel". If you often sit against it, 70–85 cm is comfortable.
3. Quick comparison: cost, time, difficulty
| Method | Realistic budget | Time | Difficulty | The point not to miss |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wood (battens / panel) | €40–150 | 2–5 h | Easy to medium | Straightening + sanding + proper fixing. |
| Padded (fabric) | €60–220 | 3–6 h | AVERAGE | Stretch the fabric taut, corners neat, staples strong. |
| Recycled materials (pallet, door, blades) | 0–120 € | 4–10 a.m. | Variable | Cleaning + finishing (otherwise it looks like a “construction site”). |
4. Method 1: Wooden headboard (the most durable)
If you want a headboard that lasts, doesn't sag, and is easy to clean, wood is your friend. Two simple options:
Version A (ultra simple) : a large panel (plywood, MDF, laminated wood) + a finish (paint, varnish, oiling).
Version B (more decorative) : vertical battens (slatted effect) fixed to a frame.
Steps (panel version)
- Cut the panel to the desired width (or have it cut in store, often it's free or almost free).
- Sand it (medium grit then fine). Sharp edges ruin comfort and leave marks on the wall.
- Finish : matte varnish (easy), oil (very beautiful), or paint (more opaque). Let it dry completely.
- Mounting : either on the wall (the cleanest option), or on the bed frame (if possible), or placed on the floor.
5. Method 2: Upholstered headboard (comfort + hotel look)
An upholstered headboard is the one that makes the biggest "wow" factor for a reasonable budget. And honestly, the difficulty isn't the sewing: it's keeping the fabric taut and the corners neat .
The principle: a solid board + foam + wadding + fabric, all stapled on the back.
Materials (basic) :
- A board (plywood recommended) + screws/brackets if needed
- Foam (3 to 5 cm for comfort) + wadding (to soften and avoid the "corner" effect)
- Upholstery fabric (thicker = easier to stretch without creases)
- Wall stapler (heavy-duty manual or electric) + suitable staples
- Craft knife/scissors, ruler, felt-tip pen, spray adhesive (optional but useful)
Steps (padded, no-fuss)
- Prepare the board : sand it quickly, especially on the edges.
- Glue the foam in place (or secure it with a few staples). The goal is to prevent it from slipping while the fabric is being applied.
- Add the wadding : it makes the touch softer and hides small imperfections.
- Lay the fabric flat , place the board in the center, then staple: first in the middle of each side, then you progress towards the corners.
- Treat the corners : fold neatly like a gift package, without making a large "ball" of fabric. Staple securely.
- Check the front (turn it over) before adding 200 staples. If a crease appears, correct it immediately.
6. Method 3: Recycling (pallets, doors, battens) without resorting to “cheap DIY”
Upcycling can give a stunning result… or a “garage” result. The difference lies in two things: preparation and finishing .
Some ideas that work:
• An old wooden door : sanded + matte varnish, placed behind the bed (unique piece effect).
• Parquet/paneling strips : fixed to a support panel, with a slight regular gap.
• A pallet : possible, but only if it is in good condition, well sanded, and ideally protected (otherwise splinters + dust).
7. Mounting: wall, bed frame, or placed on the floor (which is the safest)
This is where many people go wrong. A headboard can be very beautiful… and become a nuisance if it moves, creaks, or comes loose.
Option 1 — Wall-mounted (clean and stable) : ideal if your wall allows it. The best option is a "straddle" type system (two beveled slats that interlock). It holds well and is easy to remove.
Option 2 — Attached to the bed frame : practical for rentals, but check that your bed base/frame has attachment points. Otherwise, it becomes an unstable DIY project.
Option 3 — Placed on the floor : the simplest. You extend the headboard behind the bed frame and secure it. To prevent it from sliding, add non-slip pads.
8. Clean finishes: joints, edges, wall protection
What gives a "professional" finish is often invisible:
Clean edges : sanding + small rounding (wood) / fabric well stretched (upholstered).
Clean back : on an upholstered headboard, put a clean cloth behind to hide the staples (it costs little and it's much neater).
Wall protection : if your headboard is placed on a surface, add felt pads to the points of contact with the wall.
9. Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)
• Too small : a headboard that's exactly the same width as the bed frame often looks cramped. If you can, add a little extra space on the sides.
• Too low : as soon as you add pillows and cushions, it disappears. Measure with your bed “in situ”.
• Improper fixation : if it moves, you will feel it every day. Take an extra 20 minutes to stabilize it.
• Poorly stretched fabric : it creases, it ripples, and it ages badly. Stapling gradually, alternating sides, makes all the difference.
• Sloppy finish : unprotected wood shows marks easily (stains, dust, scuffs). A matte varnish or oil is quick and saves the project.
10. In summary: the simplest method depending on your situation
If you want to get straight to the point:
You want it to last and stay neat → choose the wooden headboard (panel or slats), with a clean fixing.
You want comfort for reading / watching a series in bed → make a padded headboard (foam + wadding + thick fabric).
If you are renting or do not want to drill → make a headboard placed on the floor , well secured, with non-slip pads.
If you like the “unique piece” effect → go for recycling , but take the time for sanding and finishing (that’s where it all happens).
Ultimately, " how to make a headboard " boils down to three decisions: the right dimensions , a suitable method , and secure attachment . The rest is just details... but it's the details that will make you proud of the result every night when you go to sleep.
11. FAQ: Height, mounting, budget (quick answers)
How to make a headboard without drilling into the wall?
The simplest solution: a headboard placed on the floor (wedged behind the bed base) or attached to the bed frame if your structure allows it. Add non-slip pads to prevent it from moving, and you have a clean, stable, and hassle-free solution.
What is the ideal height for a headboard?
In practice, a visible height of 60 to 85 cm above the mattress works in most bedrooms. Below 50 cm, the "small panel" effect quickly sets in. If you like to read sitting up, aim for 75–85 cm .
What type of wood should I choose for a sturdy headboard?
For a simple and lasting result, plywood is a safe bet. MDF also works (especially if you paint it), but consider a protective finish : matte varnish, oil, or paint. And above all: a good sanding of the edges makes all the difference in everyday use.
What budget should I plan for making a headboard?
Expect to pay €40–150 for a simple wooden version, €60–220 for an upholstered headboard (foam + fabric), and €0–120 for a repurposed one depending on what you already have. The hardware and thick fabric are the two main factors that affect the cost.
How to safely attach a headboard to placo?
If it's lightweight, suitable wall anchors may suffice. If it's heavy (especially upholstered), the best approach is to attach it to a post or distribute the load with a sturdy hanging system. When in doubt, choose a headboard that rests on the floor : it's often the safest solution.
